News from Estonia, History and economyApril 27, 2007 2:54 pm

broken window in the center of Tallinn

Well, it was a good thing we weren’t in Tallinn that evening. We learned on Friday morning, when Margit and Merle brought us the paper about the events you might have heard about in the news, that are going on in Estonia at the moment. It all started with a statue, in comemoration for the russian soldiers who died in the second world war to get estonia out of the Nazi regime. For the russian people, living in Estonia, representing a big minority, this monument is very important and they believe Estonia should be gratefull to Russia. On the other hand, the estonians have a grudge about this event, for this “freedom” from the nazi regime marked also the beginning of the russian occupation which lasted 50 years !
They believe that Nazi germany was falling appart anyway and that Russia only used this as an excuse to invade them.

This monument has been the cause of many disturbances in the country in recent years and the president, when running for the elections promised to take care of this problem, not by destroing it as originaly planned, but dispacing it in a cemetary where it would be more appropriate and less visible as a remnant of the soviet occupation.

The Riot which took place when they actually started displacing the statue, occured because of the importance of russian speaking people in Estonia and it shows that Estonia still has not solved the problem of these state-less russians which do not belong to russia nor Estonia. They want to stay in Estonia but do not want to become citizens, for they still despize the estonian culture as when the USSR occupied it.
It is hard to tell the outcome of this crisis, but such violence has not occured in this country since the independance (1991) and the 9th of may is supposed to be the celebration for the russian victory on the Nazis. Everybody is fearing more violence…
But don’t worry for us, we’re safe in Joelahtme, where the local news is that storks have finally arrived and trees are budding.

Our volunteeringApril 25, 2007 2:23 pm

Do you remember when we told you about us picking trash at Jagala Waterfalls ? Well, as you know, a river has two banks, so we still had half of the job to do. We Worked on the opposite side of the falls, because a Kayak competition was going to be held in a few days… We picked trash and more trash, but it was a little difficult, for we found out there were snakes around ! after having spotted 6 or 7 “green and yellow” snakes, and even found a nest, we had to quit. We still managed to double our previous record with 30 bags of junk collected !

After this hard day of labor, we deserved a little rest and went to Tallinn where we met, finally, with some of the other volunteers and ex-volunteers that are in Tallinn. It was good to see them all after having exchanged e-mails with some of them for months. We probably will go to some Island at the begining of June with them…


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Our volunteeringApril 24, 2007 2:10 pm

Sunday 22nd,
We helped our friend Meelis for the bicycle race he was organizing in Joelahtme. The Weather had been awfull the day before (it even snowed) but it all cleared up for the race, leaving a clear blue sky to welcome the crowd. Indeed, our village, which holds about 100 inhabitants, was invaded by 300 runners and 100 extra spectators ! A success for this first edition of the race. We had helped previously, to clear the way for the bicycles to go through the forest, and we were happy to see that our work was going to be usefull.

distribution of snacks to starving cyclists !

This time, we were in charge of providing drinks and snacks to the starving cyclists along the way. They would pass through and grab whatever they could before zooming back into the race. the professionals would not even stop, and could run the 75km through hard terrain without anything extra to eat or drink ! There were some of the best cyclists in Estonia who had come…
It was a long day, standing in the middle of nowhere in the sun, but we could talk with a few people we were working with and that was fun.
When the last cyclist had gone by, we were invited to have some soup. It was delicious and better than all the raisins and bread we’d been snacking on all day !

News from Estonia, History and economy, France-EstoniaApril 23, 2007 1:49 pm

If you’ve followed the news, you might know that last sunday (22nd) was the first turn of the elections in France.
We followed the news on internet and had voted ourselves through our parents, but it was fun to see how the estonian news reported the event. They showed all our candidates, and talked about the arrival of electronic voting machines which have been put in place for the first time in some cities.
Now, in France, the interesting thing is that they have been mentioning Estonia ! Why ? Because Estonia was the first country to use a voting system through the internet. Indeed, though the country is small, it is in the constitution that each citizen has the right to access to the world of information which is offered by internet…

So, for those who would like to know more about how the estonian elections went on (March 4th 2007), here is a short video about it…

Tallinn, Festivals 1:32 pm

Novella Hanson singing...

This last Saturday,
We took advantage of the weekend to go to Tallinn to listen to a Jazz concert. There is a Jazz festival going on at the moment, until april 28 with artists from all over the world.
We decided to go listen to Tõnu Naissoo and Novella Hanson for two reasons : first, it was free, second, they were estonian and we were curious to see how it would sound in this language.

The result was very good. both artists used the concerthall as best as they could. it was in a very big church and the pianist played a few jazz tunes on the church organ (interesting !) and the singer played with the echo of her own voice…

For those who have video, here is an extract from the concert :


Our volunteering 1:19 pm

pouring the milk...

We might have mentioned Leelo before…
She’s one of our friends in the village, and owner of the only cow in the Joelahtme. She used to know our predecessors very well and first thought they had come back when she first saw us. Every week, we take our bicycles and ride to her farm. Usually, her dog “Robi” welcomes us (barking at first, then, once he recognizes us, sweet as a lamb). Leelo tries to speak english as well as she can, and though it is quite basic, she speaks better english as our estonian !
Nevertheless, everytime we go, she teaches us a few words and it’s a good occasion to use the ones we know. For the moment we learned how to count to 30 ! A good start !

the video shows Leelo filling our bottle with good milk from her cow, then giving some to the cats :

Our volunteering 11:05 am

Last Friday (April 20th),
We were called to go help a lady from the city council (Liis) who works on environmental issues and takes care of the management of waste in the area. She had asked people to volunteer to come clean the premices of the Jagala falls (some of the highest of estonia, though they are only about 8m high). Indeed, there was a lot of junk which had accumulated through the winter. It seemed as if every single visitor had wanted to leave a part of himself there as if to show they had picniked there or smoked a cigarette. It ended up, the 30 or so volunteers Liis had hoped for didn’t turn up. It was partly due to the fact that it was a rainy day and snow was announced for the next day, and also because it was friday and people were working. So, appart from a few people who came here and there to help us for an hour or two, it was Amélie and I. (Remember that, it’s important for later !).

before and after, impressive no ?

We cleaned up the whole place, on one side of the river. picked up every single cigarette bud and tissue papers in the bushes. At the end of the day, we were dead tired, but we were helped by some other people and the weather turned out to be a clear blue sky. It was as if nature was thanking us for all this ! We felt contented already, but then Liis told us that she had planned to offer two people (out of the 30 expected) a sea-kayaking excursion to some nearby islands, with a meal provided once we get there, and to return for sunset… (this will be in summer when the sun sets late at night). We were bewildered by this and made her repeat a few times to be sure we had understood correctly. So, this summer, don’t be surprised if you see an article about kayaking !

video of our exploits ! (listen to the music ! “Reduce, Re-use, Recycle !”) :

Our volunteering 10:40 am

Kart

Last Thursday evening,
We went to the culture house in Joelahtme, to see a performance from a local theatre group. They had won prizes on the national level and were now touring the country. Since they were from around here, they had decided to play for the people who had first seen them act. One of our friends from the dancing group had told us what the story was about, so we could follow the estonian more easily… When we entered the culture house, the lady at the entrance was startled to see two young foreigners and thought we were lost. She refused to take our money (which wasn’t much but symbolicaly we wanted to pay) saying “but you know… it’s all in estonian !” we answered “yes ! that’s why we’re here !”

The name of the show was “KART” a story about a girl, living in a imaginary world she made up to escape her brutal everyday life at home. It was well acted and we could more or less figure what was going on.

When we left, we spoke to the lady from the entrance (whose name is Maya) and told her more about us and our volunteering. she gave us her phone number, and when Amélie mentioned she liked to play piano, she said she’d be very welcome to practice at the culture house whenever she wanted.

for those who have video, here are some extracts from the play :

Our volunteeringApril 17, 2007 4:55 pm

school where we did our course

In the last week or so,
we’ve been working on the preparation of a tourism course to high-school students (about 16 years old). We had been asked to do this because they knew we had studied tourism and that we had had a little experience in this field and this was the occasion to do it. Our level of estonian being ridiculously low for the moment, we had to do this in english, which was already a chalenge for Amelie… We therefore prepared a powerpoint presentations to back us up and found pictures and statistics to illustrate our speech. We rehersed it, probably did more work on it than we should, but this was our first time, and to think of ourselves giving a tourism course when we just came out of our studies, moreover, to estonian teenagers, it was a challenge.
So, this morning, we went to the school of a town called “Loo”. Our presentation went pretty well, and we managed to keep our teenager’s attention for the whole hour. Amelie did very well and we spoke about half and half. At the end, the teacher thanked us and invited us to lunch, with other teachers. Margit, who had accompanied us and presented us to the teachers and the students, found a teacher willing to spend some time to teach us estonian language. this will probably be a better solution than the last course we took for we will start at our level with a teacher (named Erika) just for ourselves. We can’t wait to start ! (our first course is on thursday).

Our volunteering 4:12 pm

pictures of us working...

Recently,
We have been doing some archive work, by taking pictures (with my tripod and digital camera) of some ethnological studies that were done in soviet times about this region. These books are very precious, even though they are only about 30years old, but there are very few traces of what it looked like at the time and this study, written by hand on hundreds of pages, with hand drawn maps, is a very complete source of information. Since the book does not belong to the reserve, we had to make a copy, but the way it was done did not enable us to scan it. We therefore took a picture of each individual page (about 500 in Total) and then worked on ALL of them on photoshop, to garantee a good quality of reading. We then burned CDs to keep all this archive information.

Daily lifeApril 16, 2007 10:39 am

Sunday at church...

Sunday morning,
as many people do, we went to church, for it is where people from the village all meet. For us it was a good way to make new contacts and also, a good excuse to sing. Moreover, we wanted to see what a mass in estonian would be like. The priest was named Margus, we had heared about him and knew we were going to see him one day or another. Though we could not understand a word of his speach, we enjoyed the service, the singing, and even trumpet playing ! There was also a little boy who didn’t seem interested in all this and was having fun hiding behind a column and making faces at us or droping wood clippings from a balcony. Since we couldn’t follow the service, we had fun watching his mischief.
After mass, we were invited to share coffee and pastries at Margus’s place, not far behind the church graveyard, with some of the people we had met already at the dancing on friday evening.

We enjoyed the rest of the day riding our bicycles on the flat roads around our place. not much to see, but it felt good to be in the sun… (on the picture, here is a storks nest we saw on our way)

a storks nest...

Southern Estonia 8:21 am

Tartu main square

On our days off, we decided to go visit Tartu, a city in the south of Estonia known for its University. It was a beautiful day and we were welcomed by a choir singing on the main square (see picture). On This same square is a statue of two students kissing. It became the symbol of Tartu. We looked through the shops and in one of them, there was an old little lady, who welcomed us as she could with greatings in languages she had written down phoneticaly on a piece of paper. We bought a nice pair of mittens from her and they have kept me warm since then.

Thank you grandparents !

We found a nice café, which, we discovered later, had a french atmosphere inside. We could hear all the music we usually listen to in France ! With a delicious hot chocolate (literaly : it was melted chocolate in a cup!) and a crep, it livened our spirits for the day.

having fun with photoshop !

We then visited the sports museum in Tartu. not the best of all, but it was opened at least and it ended up being a fun experience. The bottom floor was a small exibit of local sport club victories, but the top floor presented estonia’s champions throughout history. A lady, who was a relative of one of these champions, guided us through the different rooms trying to speak english as she could. She stopped at the room about the soviet times and said she would not comment it and left us there. It was not easy being a sport champion at that time and could be thought of trying to liven up national pride. The exibit ended with a show on the different olympic games and an interactive rope pulling (against 4 fictional strong estonian guys on a screen).

We spent the evening in a place we almost missed, for it was underground. (We had passed above it several times until two russian ladies pointed to the ground to tell us where it was !)
It was in an old powder house, a room with a 10m high ceiling and a festive atmosphere. We ate like kings and enjoyed some music. A great evening to end a great day !

Traditions and customs 7:53 am

Last Friday,
We heared that a group was gathering in a small village by the coast to dance to traditional estonian music. Of course we accepted the invitation and went to discover this tradition. The dancing took place in a small school (only 17 students !). The people seamed lively and welcoming. after a few dances, to the sound of the accordeon, we had been adopted : we felt at the same level as the estonian people there and the ice had broken. It was a very enjoyable evening, with dancing and eating pastries set on a nearby table…

estonian dancing !

there were a few children which ran around and played hide and seek. Towards the end of the evening, we were talking about music and I mentioned about me playing the Tin Whistle. I played a few tunes (I had brought them discretely in my coat) and ended playing tunes I didn’t know before with the accordeonist.
Though we came back tired, we loved this evening which enabled us to discover estonian dancing and meet many people we will probably see again soon.


Our volunteeringApril 6, 2007 5:40 pm

Wednesday, 4th of April was my Birthday !
After having opened my dear parents and grandparents gifts delivered by Amelie,we decided to take advantage of the day to go visit Tallinn’s Outdoor Museum. Margit and Merle were nice enough to let us go on this special day.

Before we got there, we stopped at a restaurant we had already noticed before called Kompressor. You can find some delicious “pankook” sort of extra-large pankake with smoked trout (for me) and smoked cheddar cheese and pork (for Amelie). It was the first time since we’ve been here in Estonia that we could not finish our plates even though we were hungry ! it was probably because we had also ordered some fried cheese balls and garlic dark bread as starters.
We came out satisfied of our feast for less than 11 euros for two !

We visited the outdoor museum in the afternoon. At this time of year, most of the traditional builings exposed were closed and we were almost the only visitors. Nevertheless, it was a great place which we greatly apreciated. It presents in a condensed form all the types of housing and architecture which can be found in Estonia.

We’ll surely come back in summer when craft markets are held…We had a lot of fun trying the swing, which they call “kiiking” here. Several people can get on it (up to 6 !) and some even try to go round 360 degrees ! crazy sport if you ask me. we didn´t quite do that but we tried. Here is a little video of us and some pictures from the outdoor museum.


Around 5pm, we met with Margit and Merle in the city center and they took us to a place which was one of the first “pubs” in Estonia (though different than what we usually call a pub) The decoration was very interesting and there were couches in the back room.During our meal, about ten young people came to our table and recited a birthday poem for me in french ! They were some of Margit’s students (she is also a history teacher). This sure was a big surprise ! They also gave me some presents : a hand made forged metal cork srew and two tickets for a show of our choice. This really was kind of them and touched me a lot…

We tried a different bus to return home. it looked more like a small truck driven by a russian driver and in which one has to yell “STOOOOPP Palun !!” to get off. A bit adventurous but it worked.

Our day endend a little later, for we still had to bring some flowers we’d bought to a lady we met in
the village which had her birthday on the same day as me.We were well greated with Georgian wine (from Caucasia) and delicious french Camembert (pretty rare around here) ! A very nice evening to end a wonderfull day !

Our volunteering 5:33 pm

Tuesday, we went to a place where a local heritage trail is planed to be implanted.Before we jumped on our bikes to go see it,we read through some material on this type of site. It was a huge boulder, in the middle of a field, like many others which can be found in the region, except ours had small cup-shape holes cut into the stone. These markings date back to prehistoric times and are commonly found near bronze age or Iron age settlements or tombs as it is the case in our reserve (about 300 archeological sites).

Scientist are not quite sure though on why such holes were dug into these boulders, but some theories are that they devouted certain religious rites to these great stones. Others beleive they were the first attempts to trace astronomical movements, others that they served to show the belonging of the land to certain clans (being of the same times as when agriculture started)
or to immortalize certain great events such as someones birth or death. Having just learned all this, we cycled to this stone in the middle of a field where in summer cows graze.

The project aims to put a small trail between two wooden traditional fences. This would reasure visitors which do not specially care about bending under barbed wire and risking their lives in a muddy cow pasture, just to see a stone covered with lichen and moss.

Amelie and I worked on finding similar places with similar sites to see how they had organized their site. Then I created an image showing what it would look like with wooden fences to better convince the farmer of the plan (see picture.)

BEFORE and AFTER ! pretty good no ?

Around 5pm, we went searching for a lady which we had heard about which owns the one and only cow in Joelahtme. She sells fresh mik everyday. They call it “real milk” around here. After having had trouble finding her farm (most of the inhabitants themselves, working in the big city didn’t know about it themselves) we met Leila, the milk lady. She was most pleased to see us and had thought at first that we were Remi and Laetitia, our predecessors which had become friends of hers.

We talked for a good while and she tought a little bit of estonian. We left her with a good litre of good milk, for hardly nothing (about three times less than what a regular litre of milk costs here). For sure, visiting her regularly, we’ll improve our estonian language !

Tallinn, Our volunteering 5:24 pm

We managed to catch a bus, going along the highway to Tallinn. Not an easy thing to do here for the buses stop randomly it seems. However we did a good job for we stoped exactly where we had hoped : a small market in Tallinn in a street, far from any tourist attraction and filled with russian speeking people. we got in and it was as if we had taken a trip back into the past. people were selling odd goods, from old clothes to honey, eggs and tools. Some even had old soviet medals on the side for sale. We stayed there an hour or so, looking through the different stands with meat, fish, vegetables being watched as much as we watched them. We had the impression of having the priveledge of entering a place no foreigner usualy sees. There was even a whole part of the market dedicated to potatos (some with strange names such as Van Gogh for instance).

We spent most of the day walking through the streets of Tallinn. We ate in a small restaurant in the center, and enjoyed the sunny weather.

Here are some pictures we took in Tallinn…

Pictures of  Tallinn

Our volunteering 5:04 pm

We’ve started working now…

Quite a lot of physical work, but it’s not too bad, most of it is for the good cause or with nice people.
We picked up some trash around the prehistorical tombs, pulled out weeds, trimed bushes to prepare for the beginning of the tourist season.

We also went to help a team clear a path for a bike race in an old phosphate mine… we worked 11 hours that day but we had a good meal around a fire and in the evening were able to go to on of the person’s house (Meelis, a neighbour) to celebrate his birthday. He even nicely proposed to us to try his sauna ! All in all we were well rewarded for our efforts !

Here are some pictures of us in action …

Our volunteeringApril 2, 2007 6:30 pm

Our first day started with a beautiful sunshine. We aprehended a little the tasks that would be given to us,
but when we joined Merle in the museum, she told us we better take advantage of the weather to discover the reserve. She gave us a map and showed us the best places to go to.

We took our bicycles and rode to the next village (Koogi) where we stopped to buy a few snacks for the day.Then, we reached a place called “Jägala falls” which are said to be the highest waterfalls in the country. After an hour in this lovely place, we rode a little further and had to cross the river on a hanging bridge like Indiana Jones. There was still snow on the banks of the river and we could see the Baltic Sea. Though we were a bit tired by that time, we were only half way trough our ride. We had to cross a golf course, a number of fields to attain a small church near our place. We could admire the work of the previous volunteers which had worked on the renovation of the stained glass, and cemetary.

We came back at sunset, tired but happy to have a spent a wonderful first day.
If you want to see more pictures of this ride, click on the video below. Enjoy !